Low Superheat problem?

Hi my friends,
My company is installing Goodman split systems in a 10 story residential bldg.
The Ah is a 2 ton and 1.5 ton condenser unit rtu mounted. I believe the units to be oversized, especially the ah. We complained but the owner said the distributior doesn't stock the 1.5 ton ah in our region.
They are 1-2 bedroom apartments roughly 500-700sqft.
Upon installation i've been replacing the 2 ton fixed piston in the evap with the 1.5 ton piston from the condenser. The buildings liquid line set seems to be 1/4" then goes to 3/8" at the unit. Suction line 5/8" through bldg to 3/4" at unit. After installation, due to line set length (2nd floor to roof) i charge the unit using 410A according to superheat.
The blower is set at the lowest speed which is 600cfms. The airflow is noisy and blows super hard and in the 1 bedrooms there are only 2 supply drops and a free air return.
My problem is that i have very little superheat and am concerned about liquid floodback. I have a suction p/t of 36° with a suction line temp of 36-37°.
If i remove refrigerAnt, to get proper superheat, ill be below 32° and ice on evap is imminent. If i increase air flow over evap, itll be blowing like a hurricane.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

1997 Caravan alarm

I changed out the plugs and wires yesterday and had to disconnect the negative battery terminal. Now when i try and put it back on the alarm goes off.
I dont have a remote lock for the vehicle.
I've tried different combinations of key placement (in ignition, with ignition set to on, lock/unlock doors) but nothing worked.
I also tried putting it on with the alarm going and trying to start the car which didnt work either, is there anything I can do?

Carrier 30 RAN Chiller Problem

Running in to a problem with a Carrier 30RAN050 chiller--scroll compressors with standard TXVs. Unit shuts down on alarm due to compressor 1 fault. Reset alarm and compressor 1 is running fine. Need to troubleshoot the sensors. Sensor info should be in the manual. Tried to get the manual on-line and found a bunch of pay sites! Any of you have one kicking around? We have one on the site, but it is in another city. Wanted to read a bit over the weekend! Thx.........

KitchenAid gas range/oven lower burner in oven won't light after self-clean

Hi there. I have read in many of the forums that KitchenAid is notorious for failing following a self-clean. This did happen to me; the display panel went blank and the door remain locked, despite the unit having power and gas delivered to it. I replaced the thermal fuse in the back and that solved most of the issues, but what remains is the lower element of the oven doesn't heat.

When I start the oven, you can hear the igniter clicking repeatedly. Slowly, the oven starts to heat. But ultimately it never reaches full temperature because I think the bottom element isn't working. The top element works as I can feel the heat with my hand. I have tried the oven on regular heating and convection, the result is the same. The broiler works, which is consistent with my observations that the top element functioning.

I won't lie, I'm a little freaked out about messing with a gas range. I've been told to be cautious because if there is gas being delivered to the bottom element but it does not light, there is a risk of the gas leaking. My question is, is this a job for a do-it-yourselfer, or should I call a professional? I didn't have any challenges replacing the thermal fuse on the back after watching an informative You Tube video about it (although I did have a few screws left over -- I am hoping those were just decorative)

Thanks for your thoughts! (The model is KGSA906PSS00)

After digging around.....

....LITERALLY, I found the problem:eek2:

No AC call for a split system. Figuring it was a safety switch tripped, start looking for where the condensate drains exit the bldg.
After 1 lap, I found them.:gah:

Attached Images

"Clunk" in laundry tub faucet

I have a laundry tub faucet that has a very audible "clunk" as it's turned on and sometimes a few seconds after it's turned on. It happens only on the hot side and when it clunks, the volume of water slows significantly. The faucet is about 16 years old and is a common design with two handles, all brass and has the rubber washers that screw onto the end of the stem. Any idea what's going on?

A NOISE QUESTION

I HAVE A PROBLEM WITH NOISE AND WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT OPTIONS THERE ARE. I NEED TO COOL A LARGE ROOM.

** WHAT IS THE QUIETEST WINDOW UNIT?

** IS THERE A STAND-ALONE UNIT THAT CAN SIT OUTSIDE AND HAVE THE COOLED AIR DIRECTED THRU A DUCT?

** ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?
THANKS,
MIDWESTBILL