Martes, Hulyo 5, 2016
Hanging very heavy carriage doors
Hi - I was lucky enough to find a great Amish builder who made me two pairs of solid mahogany carriage doors for my garage. Each opening is 8x7 and my contractor added additional studs for extra support. The builder estimates them at 130lbs each but it took 4 guys to get each door off the truck and I can barely lift a door a few inches.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
Lunes, Hulyo 4, 2016
Building inspection process for a deck?
Hello all, I am in the final stages of designing a deck for my house using the IRC 2012 guide (some changes to 2015 IRC), and am about to submit for permits. This is the first time I have had to deal with a building inspector and permitting process so I am unsure how in depth I should be taking this. I have designed it adhering to code thus far, however I am now seeing areas were the code is a inconvenience. My thoughts are that I may be overestimating the level of scrutiny the inspector with apply, and how much leniency they give to slight inconsistencies. I am in New Jersey, and my district has adopted the 2015 IRC code. I feel as if when I am looking through pictures of decks online, I see so many code violations that would make my life so much easier. Such as...
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
Removing / replacing silicone caulk
We have a stainless steel sink (undermount) attached to a granite countertop. Over the years, the silicone caulk no longer creates a tight seal between the sink and the counter...therefore water is able to run down into the cabinet. The sink doesn't feel loose, but it appears to have 'sagged' over the years. Should I remove the old caulk before applying new? I'm guessing the answer to that is yes, but what is the best method to remove the old caulk??
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Toronto board of health approves supervised injection sites
Final approval left to council after emotional board meeting sees overwhelming support for harm reduction measure
Linggo, Hulyo 3, 2016
My New GFCI wont reset! Please help
Hi, purchased this home bout year ago. It was built in 2005. Have one GFCI in unfinished basement. I tripped outside outlet that seems like connected to this gfci. Went downstairs and replaced gfci with new one as instructed there is two sets of black, white and bare so i tested the line and put set that gets around 120v in Line slot and no voltage reading on load. As soon as i turnes on breaker again i have red light came on solid. Please help!!
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