Tory talks taxes, transit, pedestrian deaths and Black Lives Matter with the Star's editorial board
Miyerkules, Hulyo 6, 2016
Mayor John Tory promises to back new taxes this fall
Tory talks taxes, transit, pedestrian deaths and Black Lives Matter with the Star's editorial board
Velocity Centre Nears Completion
The Woodhouse Group nears completion of the University of Waterloo's “Velocity Centre” located in the Communitech Hub @ 151 Charles St W. Kitchener Ontario.
Windows A/Cs with automatic (not manual) dehumidification?
Does there exist a window or portable A/C that will go into dehumidify while in cooling mode if the compressor is not running? The units I have seen have a separate dehumidify mode which then precludes cooling and vice versa. I want one that will dry the air if the a/c is slightly oversized, which causes the compressor to not run enough to dry the air.
The Power of Emojis in Marketing and How to Use Them Efficiently With These Little-Known Keyboard Shortcuts
Did you know: Over 6 billion emojis are shared every day!
Clearly, using emojis within messages, tweets, and all kinds of communication has become very popular over recent years, particularly on mobile devices where emoji buttons and keyboards have become quite ubiquitous.
But what if you're working from a desktop and hoping to add an emoji or two to a message?
We've got a little-known emoji tip just for you - one that is easy to remember and quick to use. In this post, we'll cover the little-known shortcuts to share emojis from Mac and Windows desktop as well as sharing how to use emojis to boost your social media posts.
Get ready for some fun!
The little-known shortcut for adding emojis on Mac and Windows
How to add emojis on Mac (keyboard shortcut): CTRL + CMD + Space
1. Click on any text field
Position your cursor in any text field where you'd like to add an emoji. For example, you can do this in a Buffer post:
2. Press Command + Control + Space
Press the Command and Control keys on your Mac keyboard and then press Space:
3. Choose your emoji from the list
You'll now see the emoji keyboard palette launch within your screen:
You can scroll through all the available emojis and categories (People, Nature, Food & Drink, Celebration, Activity, Travel & Places, and Objects & Symbols) or search the full list of emoji from the search box at the top of the window.
4. Click to add the emoji to your text
Once you've found the emoji you'd like to add, click on it and it'll appear in your text box to the left of the cursor:
How to add emojis on Windows: Touch keyboard
1. Open the Touch Keyboard
Click on the Touch Keyboard icon in the bottom right corner of your screen:
If you don't see the Touch Keyboard option on your desktop, this guide will help you to enable it.
2. Click on the smiley face emoji icon
One the keyboard window has opened up, click on the smiley face icon next to the Control button.
3. Choose your emoji
Your keyboard will now switch to an emoji keyboard and you can select the emoji you'd like to add to your text field:
How emojis can impact your social media content
Emojis are incredibly fun, and they can also help increase the reach of your social media posts and boost engagement.
For example, internet marketer Larry Kim ran a quick experiment where he split-tested the same promoted post with and without emojis to the same targeting group at the same time. The results of this experiment were pretty impressive. The emoji version had 25.4% higher engagement (11.06 percent vs. 8.82 percent) and a 22.2 percent lower cost per engagement ($0.18 vs. $0.14)
3 simple-yet-effective ways to use emojis in your marketing
1. As a response
Emojis can be a great way to respond to people on social media. Instead of simply 'liking' or 'favoriting' a post, an emoji can convey a specific emotion. For example, if something made you laugh, the :joy: emoji could be a great one to react with 
Martes, Hulyo 5, 2016
Hanging very heavy carriage doors
Hi - I was lucky enough to find a great Amish builder who made me two pairs of solid mahogany carriage doors for my garage. Each opening is 8x7 and my contractor added additional studs for extra support. The builder estimates them at 130lbs each but it took 4 guys to get each door off the truck and I can barely lift a door a few inches.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
My GC is a bit nervous about getting the install right since its hung on hinges that are lag bolted to the underlying structure. The frames aren't perfectly square so he will need to do some shimming to get it just right. The issue is that he can't shim the jambs because the lag screws go deep into the supporting frame. So I suggested that he build a temp support to hold the doors in the exact closed position he wants it and then use that to line up the hinges.
Anyone try anything like this before? Given the weight we are worried that they will shift a bit and then will be out of alignment. Or over time they will sag. The lags have a out a 1/32 of an inch of play within the hole of the hinge. Plus the hinges are mounted on the face of the building frame so he can't shim it horizontally.
Lunes, Hulyo 4, 2016
Building inspection process for a deck?
Hello all, I am in the final stages of designing a deck for my house using the IRC 2012 guide (some changes to 2015 IRC), and am about to submit for permits. This is the first time I have had to deal with a building inspector and permitting process so I am unsure how in depth I should be taking this. I have designed it adhering to code thus far, however I am now seeing areas were the code is a inconvenience. My thoughts are that I may be overestimating the level of scrutiny the inspector with apply, and how much leniency they give to slight inconsistencies. I am in New Jersey, and my district has adopted the 2015 IRC code. I feel as if when I am looking through pictures of decks online, I see so many code violations that would make my life so much easier. Such as...
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
-After looking through many documents, it appears you are quite limited in the amount of step down you can get from the door to the deck. When adhering to the allowable ledger bolt patterns and the band joist bolts, without completely changing the size of your joists, you are stuck with practically no step down. I am using 2x10 joists for the deck, and house band joist is 2x10, which by code would only allow a .75" step. That is not great for snow in New jersey. Check out link to confirm
2015 IRC Deck Ledger Bolt Placement | ProTradeCraft
-Another area where I wish I has some room was the footings 5ft from the foundation rule. Unless you intend on digging your deck footings to the elevation of your house footings (unrealistic), than you have to space the deck off further than 5ft. This confuses me as the none of the maximum allowable joist overhangs in the code can reach span that 5ft distance. In my case this is not critical, as I am right on the edge of 5ft, however if I could cheat a little I would. Do inspections measure from the footer to the house? Pier to the house? Post to the house? Or, are they quite strict about the footer to the house distance?
-Stairs landing on concrete pads. Code says stairs must land on an area with footings of proper size and below frost. I have seen countless pictures of stairs landing right on concrete slabs, sometimes, just concrete blocks. ?
-How does an inspector, inspect your ledger attachments if he/she cannot access your interior band joist? Obviously, an owner w cannot demolish the floor to access the band joist? How does he very you are attaching the ledger to the right spots on the band joist (edge distances, no drill, no pass zones, esc)?
Thank you guys, I really need some advice here
Removing / replacing silicone caulk
We have a stainless steel sink (undermount) attached to a granite countertop. Over the years, the silicone caulk no longer creates a tight seal between the sink and the counter...therefore water is able to run down into the cabinet. The sink doesn't feel loose, but it appears to have 'sagged' over the years. Should I remove the old caulk before applying new? I'm guessing the answer to that is yes, but what is the best method to remove the old caulk??
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Thanks in advance for any advice!
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